Final Musings & Video!

I must admit, there have been nary a disappointment on this entire trip, save the lack of internet at the apartment (which ended up producing more interesting adventures anyway), and the finals of the tennis tournament.  Two of my favorite 3 players were set for a fantastic showdown, and unfortunately one of them forgot to bring his “A” game, and it was quite “anti-climatic”.  However, always looking for the positives in a life riddled with glasses “half empty”, this gave me more time to pack my bike and find one last place to enjoy exquisite Italian food.

 

I did however do one more crazy/fun thing before the finals started though.  I wanted to get a piece of video of me riding in traffic, since this is one of the things that I will remember the most about this trip.  As I came into the street where I comuted daily to the stadium, I was trying to figure out just how I would do this – maybe set the camera on top of a parked car or something.  Then I saw an older woman taking out the garbage, and I figured I would try out my Italian one last time.  I asked to pay her 5 euro if she would film me coming towards her in traffic.  She would have to stand between the parked cars to get the film, and it might take a few tries, and strangely enough, she agreed.  It did indeed take 3 takes – mostly because I didn’t explain the camera as well as I should have, and also because I wanted two versions “just in case”.  She was patient and brave, coming out into the road a bit more than I asked her to.  When we were done, 10 minutes later, she refused to take the 5 euro despite my insistence, telling me she was happy to do the favor.  I could easily see she was not a woman of much money, so my faith in Italian kindness and generosity was restored once again. 

 

I say “restored” because in the end, my “landlady” who rented me the room in her apartment never did “forgive me” for using her phone.  She stayed mad at me the entire time I stayed there – avoiding me every day, and despite flowers, and appology and a lengthy note with my final payment, she never even said goodby.  Oh well, Italian, Russian, American… in the end, we are all human with flaws sufficient to keep me reminded of how amazing the concept of GRACE is, and how important it is to dispense it whenever possible.   I’m also reminded that as soon as I return, I will begin to teach my first Sunday school class titled “What’s So Amazing About Grace” based on the book by Philip Yancy.  My life and this trip has already provided plenty of analogies to enrich what he has already covered in his text.

 

My final musings must cover the topic of “Italian stereotypes”.  I was quite unaware of just how steep and pervasive they were until the topic was explored in Marzia’s class at the University of Pittsburgh, and successive trips to Italy allowed me to see more completely the “normal” Italian culture vis a vis my original concept of what is normal.  The long and short of it is this – through the media – predominantly movies, “traditional” Italian music created or at least made propular primarily during the 50s & 60s, and through the “Little Italy’s” sprinkled throughout the USA, there is a specific image of Italy and its culture that does not really reflect how Italy has changed over the years. 

 

There continues to be a “Godfather” image of the average family, the mafia, and even the music from that film continues to be what the average American conjures up for what Italy is like.  In fact, on Sunday I heard the music from the Godfather being played in the “tourist type area” where I was sitting to no doubt help the tourists feel, well, more like they are really getting the “Italian experience”.   The fact of the matter is that Italian music has evolved like any culture’s music – it’s modern, and heavily influenced by American and European styles.  Now that I listen to Italian Radio on the net, I can embrace today’s Italian music, without feeling like every song has to have an accordian in it to sound Italian.  Don't get me wrong, I LOVE the "old italian music" we Americans always associate with Italy, but it simply isn't a reflection of who they are today - certainly not for the younger Italians, who are still in love with rock n' roll like most young people. In regards to the mafia, I do get mixed stories on that topic, but it seems that the long and short of it is that it exists, primarily influencing business in the south of Italy more than the north, but it isn’t anything like what continues to be portrayed on cable (the Sopranos) or older Italian movies. 

 

Lastly, the Italian society is trying its best to modernize where it can, but to be frank, I feel they are still about 10 to 20 years behind modern Europe or the US.  Computers and so called “internet points” are almost identical to where they were 10 years ago in the US.  Various public policies like smoking, parking, pet feces on the sidewalks, and litter all seem 20 years behind.  I’d estimate that 3 Italians smoke for every 1 American (including many, many kids under 18), parking is without rules or consideration for who you’ve blocked in, and the “blind eye” to litter is almost exactly how I remember the US when I was in high school.  While I don’t remember us having a problem with the dog crap on the sidewalks, I never lived in the big cities when I was young, and perhaps we had the same issues back then in the US – I just don’t know.  These few aspects must “evolve” with the population’s thinking and attitude more than just public policy, as it seems that the “will and feelings of the people” dictate behavior in Italy much more than actual laws or public policy.  Many of these aspects are not as visible in the smaller “country” towns where most of my cycling took me, and perhaps this is one of the reasons why I like touring that way.  However, there is so much history, art and architecture in the big cities, to leave them out would rob anyone of the complete richness of this wonderful country and culture.

 

So, staying in the Rome “suburbs” for a week, and not having a touring company organize all the details of the first half of the trip, and I’ve seen more of the “common/normal” Italy, with a natural amount of additional “blemeshies” one would come to expect in any country.  It has not made me feel any less attached or compelled to cherish this culture.  It’s no different than a relationship that moves from infatuation to real love – after the “honeymoon” when all we can only see is only what is good and lovely, we have the opportunity to embrace the real person – faults and all, and only then is our love truly tested.  For me, my love for this country has only been amplified.  And as such, my mind will keep indelible memories of this trip.   I will not forget Mirko, his wife Erika & baby Matilde, Ivano, Laura & her daughter Matilde, Maria Paola & her mama, Michele, Moreno, Severio, Franco, Rita, Monica & Giordano – each enriching my experience beyond my expectations.  I will not forget Marzia’s struggling through a horrific cold and alergies to do the best job she possibly could - helping me navigate areas she never traveled through before; we made a good team of “first timers”.  I will not forget the completely different and more “comfortable” feeling I had at the Italian Open vs the French Open tennis tournament where the tennis courts were more accessible, and the fans more amiable.  Finally, I will not forget riding through Rome, feeling “part” of the daily life, and experiencing both the good and bad of Italian culture; confirming for me once again, that when I’m in Italy, “Tutto e’ a posto!” (it’s all good).

My final “it’s all good” moment was when Giordano (whom I’ve only chatted with on line) came probably 35 km out of his way to pick me up at 5am to take me to the airport.   He wanted to this so we could at least have a couple hours to visit in the car and over coffee at the airport.  It was the perfect ending to an almost perfect trip.  Each trip I take to Italy seems to bring something special with it – I can’t wait to see what the next one brings in 2008.