There is a “Code” for the Crazies

For Americans, the state of driving in Italy, and the notion of negotiating a scooter, motorcycle or a bicycle among the “pazzi” (crazy) drivers seems perilous at best.  At first blush, it does seem incredibly dangerous.  However, I have been “forced” into using it as my sole means of transportation since the taxis went on strike the day after I arrived.  Not knowing this, and wanting to find a taxi to go to the first night match the day I got in, I went to the local hotel to have the bellman call me a taxi.  After getting a rate sheet from the hotel, (which showed their lowest nightly stay to be over 100 euro more than the WEEKLY rate I was paying), I asked the bellman about a taxi, and he informed me they were on strike.  Someone saw my Rolland Garros T-shirt and figured I was going to the tennis match, and asked if I wanted to share a limo – several of which the hotel secured during the strike.  After getting in the car and deciphering his Italian, it was clear that he wanted 180 Euro (about $250) for a round trip of less than 5km!  I said no thanks, and rode my bike.  At first this didn’t seem appealing, given that there is a monster hill between where I am staying and the Olympic Stadium where the tournament is held.  It would not only mean climbing that on the way back, but also after dark without lights.  Nevertheless, I was not about to be ripped off.  It turned out that most of that section of road is well lit, and the climb at the end of the day served to be better than any AdvilPM or any other sleep aid I’ve taken in the past to help me fall asleep. 

 

Since then, I’ve ridden my bike everywhere for everything.  I have realized there really is a sort of “code” of the road for these crazies.  There is no such thing as “cutting off” someone.  Well, almost no such thing – let’s just say, unless you almost cause an immediate accident, it is considered “normal”.  In fact, it seems to be your right, even your expected obligation to take every opening you have.  When doing so, the vehicle behind you, is obliged to simply keep you in mind and not hit you.  However, a word of caution to the inexperienced “aggressive driver”.  Any sign of weakness, slowing down, or a lack of complete commitment to going in front of someone, either through an intersection or through a turn, and you will lose that right within a millisecond.  I am a very experienced aggressive driver/rider, and I know how to make decisive turns, etc.  However, the few times I showed the slightest hesitation or indecision, I lost my place and no matter how close we were, or who had the better position, my right was “forfeited” and every manner of vehicle would go in front of me.  It is remarkable how predictable this is.  This is what I think makes it manageable – everyone understands this, and if you want to “play the game”, you have to know the rules.  I was often reminded of the saying on ski slopes – “Go big, or Go home” – in other words, make your move or stay off the road”.

 

Scooters and motorbikes are a completely unique category for vehicle behavior.  Two wheels of all kinds are simply allowed to ride next to any vehicle, and no one seems to be annoyed by it – there seems to be no animosity between car drivers and cyclists of any kind, I think because many must have both types of vehicles, or have had 2 wheels at one time.  If you are not used to it, and Americans obviously are not, it would be unnerving to say the least.  They weave in and out between lanes, pass notoriously on the left, and in general are always “making their own lanes” wherever there is the slightest amount of room to get by.  All manner of people ride them too – teens to white haired senior citizens, women dressed to kill, and in professional outfits (including dresses or skirts at times), men in suits are extremely common, and most surprising to me, is you will see many taking their kids to school in the morning on them.  Again, at first it seems completely crazy and dangerous, but it is so “normal” here – the method and manner of driving - that now that I’ve been here for a week, and living riding among them every day – it already seems “normal” to me.

 

I’ve also noticed that pedestrians also understand this “crazy code” of driving.  If a pedestrian was to “wait” until the road was clear to cross, they would grow old and die.  Instead they simply begin walking out (I’m talking about crossings that have no traffic lights controlling when you can cross), and cars, motorbikes and the like will slow down or stop as necessary – again, not seeming to be annoyed by it.   Actually, I’m certain Roman drivers are always annoyed as long as anyone is slowing them down, but at least they expect it.   So, the more I understand the way this works, I don’t actually think it is as dangerous as I first felt.  Anyway, it’s been an amazing experience, and I love getting where I’m going without ever waiting (one big advantage over cars), and saving money and burning calories so I can have more gelato!!